5 Steps to Help Heal Your Compromised Skin Barrier

If your skin has been feeling red, tight, inflamed, itchy, flaky, dry or unusually reactive, your skin barrier may be compromised. This is different from simply having a “dry” or “sensitive” skin type. 

Skin type is something you’re born with and influenced by genetics, like naturally producing less oil (dry) or having heightened reactivity (sensitive). These skin types can be managed but not necessarily ‘fixed’.  

A compromised skin barrier, on the other hand, is a temporary skin state that can happen to anyone at any time, likely due to the application of too many active ingredients or excessive exfoliation. The good news though, a damaged skin barrier can be repaired.

What Exactly is the Skin Barrier?

The skin barrier (also known as the stratum corneum) is the outermost layer of our skin and serves as the body’s protective shield. It is made up of dead keratinised cells and fats (lipids). In addition to the lipid layer, we also have the acid mantle and skin microbiome, which all work together to keep skin healthy and resilient:

• The Lipid Layer: a mixture of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol that act like mortar between the skin cells (the bricks). This layer prevents water loss and blocks irritants and pathogens from entering.

• The Acid Mantle: a thin, slightly acidic film (with a pH of ~4.5–5.5) on the surface of the skin. It helps protect against harmful bacteria, allergens, and pollution.

• The Microbiome: a community of beneficial microorganisms that live on the skin. These microbes support immunity, regulate inflammation, and act as a natural defence system against pathogens.

When balanced, this trio maintains smooth, hydrated, and resilient skin. But when disrupted, for example, through over-exfoliation, harsh products, or environmental stressors, moisture escapes, irritants enter, and the microbiome can fall out of balance, resulting in redness, sensitivity, and dryness.

What Causes Skin Barrier Damage?

The skin barrier is delicate and can be disrupted by a combination of factors, including:

• Environmental conditions: Harsh weather (wind, cold, heat, UV exposure) can damage the skin.

• Overuse of actives: Ingredients like retinoids and acids are not harmful on their own, but incorrect application, i.e. too much, too often, or layering too many actives, can weaken the barrier.

• Fragranced products or allergens: These may trigger irritation in some people.

• Underlying skin conditions: Eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis naturally compromise the barrier.

• Lifestyle factors: Stress, poor diet, lack of sleep, and dehydration also play a role.

5 Steps to Help Heal a Compromised Skin Barrier

1. Simplify and Strengthen Your Routine:

Strip your skincare routine back to basics. Focus on a gentle, non-stripping, pH-balanced cleanser and a barrier-repairing moisturiser that is rich in ceramides and fatty acids. You may even consider using a gentle, non-comedogenic oil like jojoba, rosehip, hemp seed or sweet almond.

Avoid fragrances, essential oils, and harsh exfoliants. Healing requires minimalism and consistency.

2. Hydrate and Soothe:

Dehydration exacerbates a compromised barrier. Use products with humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera to draw moisture into the skin. This could be in the form of a toner, mist or serum.

Follow these with an occlusive product as mentioned above, such as a moisturiser containing ceramides or squalane, to lock hydration in. Consider soothing ingredients such as niacinamide or colloidal oatmeal to calm irritation.

3. Protect Against Further Damage:

In keeping with a simple routine, avoid over-washing and only cleanse your face once or twice daily to avoid drying out the skin further.

UV rays are one of the biggest culprits in skin barrier disruption. Wear a broad-spectrum SPF50+ daily mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as they tend to be gentler on sensitised skin. Limit unnecessary exposure to extreme weather conditions when possible.

4. Support Healing from the Inside Out:

Diet and lifestyle can also assist with skin repair. Prioritise:

• Healthy Fats: Like omega 3s and monounsaturated fatty acids through foods like avocados, extra virgin olive oil, oily fish (e.g. salmon and sardines) and chia seeds, in order to replenish lipids.

• Antioxidants: To combat free radical damage and assist with healing. Found in berries, dark leafy greens, green tea and tomatoes.  

• Hydration: Drink plenty of water and herbal teas to support overall skin function and prevent skin dehydration which can make things worse.

Managing stress and getting quality sleep are also equally important for skin barrier recovery.

5. Reintroduce Actives Mindfully:

Once your barrier has healed (at least one month of following the above or until symptoms have disappeared completely), you don’t need to avoid actives forever. Ingredients like retinoids and exfoliating acids have incredible long-term skin benefits, but they should be used correctly. Reintroduce them slowly and:

• Add one active at a time.

• Start with low concentrations and build up gradually.

• Sandwich actives between layers of moisturiser.

• Use on alternate days rather than daily until your skin adjusts.

You may also explore supportive treatments like red light therapy, which has been shown to calm inflammation, stimulate healing, and strengthen the skin barrier. Always consult a dermatologist if unsure.